Baan Denmark PC

DIY Off-Grid Solar Setup – Baan Denmark

This is my guide to setting up an off-grid solar system. Here I share my experiences with battery bank, BMS, MPPT and AC installation – all tested and documented at Baan Denmark.

🔧 System Overview

• Baan Denmark
• 🔋 Battery Bank
• 🧠 BMS
• ⚡ MPPT
• 🔧 DC Wiring
• 🔌 AC and Wiring
• 🛡 Safety
• 📱 Apps
• 💰 Economy

The Electrical Cabinet:

This is my electrical cabinet – it is waterproof, well ventilated, and solid. The cabinet itself is built with a steel frame, fitted with 6mm fiberboard panels. The angle in the photo is a bit misleading – the roof is more slanted than it appears. The cabinet measures 200W x 60D x 240H cm.
On the left side is my battery bank, currently at 400Ah. Eventually, I plan to expand it to 800Ah when I switch to the blue 3.2V 200Ah cells. The green ones are 100Ah, connected in pairs to make 200Ah per cell group. Properly assembled, each shelf can hold up to 16 elements.
The right side of the cabinet is the technical room. On the wall next to the battery bank sits the BMS and all the balancing wires, which are extended via terminals to each individual cell. Just below the middle on the right is the inverter – DC enters at the bottom and AC exits at the top. On the right side are my two MPPTs. In the upper middle section of the technical cabinet is the entire AC module.

But let me start from the beginning:
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🔋 Battery Bank

The battery bank is composed of 16 LiFePO₄ cells, each with a capacity of 400Ah and 3.2 volts.
Balancing and practical experience:
I have built my system in several stages, which is why there are quite a few balancing cables installed in my battery bank.
Previously I used a simple "no brain" BMS, so it was important to have a visual overview of all cells in the bank without having to measure them physically.

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🧠 BMS

My current BMS is a DGJBD SP22S003BL22S100A – an upgrade with active balancing and 100A capacity.
This model provides more precise cell monitoring and better stability in the battery bank.
I have documented wiring, balancing routines, and offset correction as artefacts in the system manual.

Mounting balance wires: Follow the diagram carefully for correct connections.

In the chapter on ‘DC wiring’ there is a detailed description of how to connect the balance wires from the BMS to the battery bank.

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Setting up the BMS in the app:
When you receive your BMS, scan the included QR code to download the correct app.
Next, scan the step 2 QR code to connect the BMS to the app.
Follow the images step by step to configure the BMS properly.

Balancing:
Active balancing is worth its weight in gold –

it helps keep all cells in the bank perfectly balanced.
The higher the balancing current, the better and faster the cells are equalized.
My active balancing runs at 5A.
Since the BMS is connected via Bluetooth, you don’t have a direct physical overview of the battery bank.
That’s why I created a multi-cell monitoring board, shown alongside the battery bank.
It gives me a good overview – not perfect, but reasonably useful.

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⚡ MPPT

To enable charging, an MPPT is required. I recommend the PowMr 60A 12–48 Volt.
Configuration of the MPPT charge controller:
Key settings (D00 to D06) are crucial for safe, efficient, and long-term operation of your LiFePO₄ battery bank.
These parameters control how the MPPT charges and protects your batteries.
Use the display and navigation buttons on your PowMr MPPT to access and adjust the settings.
Note:
Always make sure the MPPT is disconnected from both solar panels and the battery before changing wiring.
When configuring, the MPPT must first be connected to the battery.
It is not possible to edit parameters while the solar panels are connected.
Since the MPPT supports 12, 24, 36, and 48 volts, some parameters are displayed in 12V format.

• D00: 24H – Load on-time (not used)
• D01: 13.3 – Low voltage reconnect (LVR)
• D02: 13.5 – Low voltage disconnect (LVD)
• D03: 13.1 – Float charging voltage (shuts system down)
• D04: ??? – Calibration parameter (measured with voltmeter)
• D05: USE – Battery type
• D06: 48V – Voltage system selection

I will return to the installation of the MPPT once the cables are mounted.

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🔧 DC Wiring (Direct Current)

Cable Lugs:
From your battery bank to the BMS’s B–, run a 50sq welding cable. Welding cables are very flexible and can handle high currents without overheating.
Also run a 50sq cable to a solid copper grounding rod, placed at least 10 meters away from your AC grounding rod.
In larger systems like the one we are looking at here, a 16sq cable might be sufficient…
BUT the larger the sq, the less energy is lost in the cables.
From the BMS’s C– terminals, connect one to the MPPT and the other to the inverter.
Use the same dimension for the positive cables (50sq).
How do you connect them???
For cables of this thickness, I used a cable lug called 8-25.

I chose not to crimp my lugs – instead, I soldered them on to achieve the best possible connection.
Make sure all cable ends that require a lug get one.
The lugs can then be bolted together to achieve a solid connection.
Cables to and from the MPPT do not need lugs, but soldering the ends is a good idea – only at the root of the insulation – to keep the strands together. Otherwise, a single loose strand could cause a short circuit in the safety breakers.
According to the manual, cables from the breakers to the MPPT should be 10sq. I chose a larger size: 16sq.
This is the maximum size that fits in the terminal without issues.
Cables to and from the solar panels should be at least 10sq, preferably larger, but not more than 16sq due to the MPPT’s terminal limitations.

Battery Bank:
Looking at the battery bank, each cell has two terminals – the positive marked with red on the back of the terminal.
Be VERY careful that the cells are oriented correctly – alternating positive and negative upwards.
You connect all cells: plus to minus, to plus, to minus – until all 16 elements are joined into one large battery using the supplied busbars.
The negative terminal without a busbar must be grounded.

BMS:
The BMS has a bundle of wires grouped into two multi-connectors.
The first wire is black – this is negative and called B0. It connects to the battery bank’s negative terminal without a busbar. This is also cell no. 1.
The next wire is balance wire B1 – it connects to the same cell, but on the positive terminal.
B2 connects to cell 2’s positive terminal
B3 to cell 3’s positive terminal
… and so on until B13, which connects to cell 13.
B14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, and B20 all connect to cell 14’s positive terminal.
B21 connects to cell 15’s positive terminal
B22 to cell 16’s positive terminal

Before plugging the connectors into the BMS, it is important to measure all terminals.
On the back of the multi-connector you can access each terminal.
Set your voltmeter to VDC 200. Hold the black lead (negative) on terminal B0.
Then measure B1 (approx. 3.2V), B2 (approx. 6.4V), B3 (approx. 9.6V), etc. – the voltage should rise gradually.
If there is an error in the readings, find and correct it – otherwise you risk burning out the BMS and damaging the battery bank.

When all balance wires are correctly mounted, connect the main cable between the bank and the BMS to terminal B– (both blue cables joined into one main lead).
Then connect multi-connector 1 (negative first), followed by multi-connector 2.
One black C– from the BMS connects to the inverter’s negative, and the other black C– to the MPPT’s negative.

MPPT:
Negative is already connected from the BMS to the MPPT.
Now for the positive cable – it connects directly from the battery bank’s positive terminal to the MPPT’s positive.
The MPPT must charge the battery bank, and it cannot do so without solar panels.
At the bottom of the MPPT are double terminals – all negatives are common throughout.
From the left: two positive terminals for 2 × 1200W solar panels.
At high voltage, the panels must be split into two channels – this is important to avoid overloading the MPPT.
Next come the solar panel negatives.
But you must NOT connect the panels directly to the MPPT – NO!
You must install a minimum p2 20A 1000VDC safety breaker – one for each channel.
After the first set of terminals comes the second set for the other panel group.
Then comes the connection to and from the battery bank – here you must use a p2 60A 1000VDC safety breaker.
Finally, there is “Load” – ignore it, it is only 5A and not strong enough for your consumption.

Solar Panels:
Your PowMr MPPT is rated at 60A and has a PV input of 190V / 2800W.
Get solar panels that match 1200W per channel – in strong sunlight with high UV they can produce more than the label indicates.

Inverter:
Negative from the BMS to the inverter has already been covered.
Now for the positive – here it is important to use the anti-spark device.

When the three parts have been in contact, you have 5–10 seconds to mount the cable on the inverter’s terminal.
Now your VDC system is ready for use.

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Step-by-step setup of D0x functions:

Configuration of the MPPT charge controller: Important settings (D00 to D06) Correct configuration of your MPPT charge controller is crucial for safe, efficient, and long-term operation of your LiFePO₄ battery bank. These settings determine how the MPPT charges and protects your batteries. Please use your PowMr MPPT’s display and navigation buttons to access and adjust these parameters.
Note: Always make sure the MPPT is not connected to solar panels before making parameter changes.
How to set D00–D06: Press ´PRG/ESC´ once and use the up/down arrows to find the desired D0x setting. Press ´ENTER´ to select. Use the arrows again to adjust the parameter. After adjustment press ´ENTER´ and then ´PRG/ESC´ to exit. Turn off the MPPT to confirm the settings (you can adjust multiple parameters before turning it off).
1. D00: Load active time Function: Load is VDC and does not allow much current. I recommend not setting or using the load output. Press ´ENTER´ and continue to the next D0x
2. D01: Controls when charging from solar panels to the battery bank restarts after reaching full charge. Set D01 to 13.5 Press ´ENTER´ and continue to the next D0x	Parameter not valid in image
3. D02: Maximum charge level for LiFePO₄. Do not exceed 54.0V (equivalent to 13.5V in a 12V system). Set D02 to 13.6 Press ´ENTER´ and continue to the next D0x	Parameter not valid in image
4. D03: The MPPT sends a signal to the BMS and shuts down the entire system if this voltage is reached. For safety reasons, especially for your LiFePO₄ battery bank, the system should shut down at 52.4V. Set D03 to 13.4 Press ´ENTER´ and continue to the next D0x	Parameter not valid in image
5. D04: Calibration parameter – set according to the voltage measured directly across the battery bank (first negative to last positive). Enter the measured value here. Set D04 to the voltage your meter shows Press ´ENTER´ and continue to the next D0x
6. D05: The manual suggests setting this to ´L16´. I strongly advise against this, as the preset factors are too high for charging and too low for discharging. Set D05 to USE (this enables function D06). Press ´ENTER´ and continue to the next D0x
7. D06: Tells the MPPT to calculate all parameters for a 48V system. Set D06 to 48V Press ´ENTER´ and continue to the next D0x or finish
PRG/ESC to exit programming. Turn off the MPPT to save/confirm the settings.

Next step: VAC section.
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🔌 AC and Wiring (Alternating Current)

Now we have reached the AC cables:
The cables from the inverter’s VAC output can be 8sq, since the inverter delivers a maximum of 8000 watts. In fact, 4sq would be sufficient – but the thicker the cable, the less voltage drop you will have in the system.
However, you should not go below 10sq from your main breaker from the utility company, as they deliver up to 45A (amps).
An important point: fixed installations MUST use solid-core wires – stiff conductors.
From the inverter to the RCD (HPFI relay), it is not a fixed installation, so you may use flexible cable.
From the inverter’s RCD to the transfer switch, it becomes a fixed installation and must be mounted with solid-core wire – still 8sq.
From the utility company’s RCD you must continue with at least 10sq.
You continue with 10sq from the right side to the left side of the automatic transfer switch and further to the main breaker in your fuse box.
From your groups you can check a table to see how thick cables you can run from the different groups. As standard – and what I use myself – is:
10A = 1.5sq (preferably 2.5sq), ground 0.75sq (preferably 1sq)
16A = 2.5sq (preferably 4sq), ground 1sq (preferably 1.5sq)
20A = 4sq (preferably 6sq), ground 1.5sq (preferably 2.5sq)
If you use the largest possible sq, you avoid overheating your cables.
A good idea is to run all cables directly from the group in the electrical cabinet to your outlet – WITHOUT joints.
 

Here you can see my entire AC module.
In principle, you are allowed to do your own electrical installation. BUT!! Professionals are required to connect it to the utility grid. The breaker shown in the picture is the main breaker from the utility company.
At the top of the inverter where AC is drawn out, it is important to use L for phase and N for neutral. Ground is not used since you likely already have a grounding rod for your AC installations. Important note about grounding from the inverter: On my inverter, the ground terminal from the AC output is not connected. This is because the internal grounding of my specific inverter model is useless. I chose not to connect neutral and ground, as is often done in Thailand, because I prefer a ‘floating’ system for increased safety in my off-grid setup, which has its own grounding rod. Always follow the manufacturer’s manual for your inverter for the correct and safest grounding method.
This smart device automatically switches between utility power and solar power. On this model, the small box on the left is marked ´N´ and the box on the right is marked ´R´. Solar power must be connected to the left box, and utility power to the right box. The black sliding knob in the middle is for manual switching. You switch manually by turning the large knob.
From the bottom of the transfer switch, connect L to L and N to N. From there, cables go to an RCD. My relay on the left looks a bit different than usual – it is controlled by my mobile phone via WiFi. As seen on the right side of the picture, there is also an advanced power meter, which is also a combined RCD. The inverter is connected through it before being linked to the transfer switch. It is also controlled by the same app (Smart Life). Search your shopping channel for ´Smart Life device´ or ´Smart Life save t cut´. Or download the images and search for them on your shopping channel.
From the safety breaker (RCD), wires must be run to the main breaker for your fuse groups. Let’s make one thing clear: All cables from the inverter and the main breaker from the utility must be at least 6sq. You may already have a fuse box for the AC installation – in that case, simply connect the cables from the RCD directly to the main breaker in the fuse box.

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🛡 Safety

Important note:
There is a system where neutral and ground are connected in the same conductor (called a PEN conductor).
It is used in some places to avoid 3‑pin plugs, but I am definitely not a supporter of it.
If the connection fails, or the plug is reversed, devices with a metal chassis can end up carrying full phase voltage – with catastrophic consequences.
That is why I never use a neutral‑ground combination at Baan Denmark, but keep ground and neutral separated for safe operation.

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📱 Apps for Control and Monitoring
 

Smart Life:
This app is used to control the system’s functions via mobile or tablet.
It allows you to switch on/off, monitor consumption, and integrate with other devices.
Smart Life acts as the central platform where you can gather all control functions.
However, it requires that your RCDs (HPFI relays) are Smart Life compatible.

Both devices shown here are RCDs in different designs.
The common feature is that you get a clear overview of your consumption, and you can set your own cut-off.
The relay from the inverter should not exceed 40A – since 8000 watts at 230VAC equals 40A – preferably 35A for safety.
The relay for the utility grid should not exceed 45A – preferably 40A.

Furthermore, I have total control over lights, fans, air conditioners, televisions, water pump from my own borehole + pool pump, as well as four different temperature sensors around the property – and even a padlock...
In total, I control 75 devices in my home.
Yes, you read that right: I can talk to a padlock 😄🔐
Who else can brag about that?

Google Assistant:
With Google Assistant you can control the system using voice commands.
Smart Life and Google Assistant work well together – so you can say “Hey Google, turn on the system” and gain direct control.
It makes everyday life easier and more intuitive.

VstarCamUltra:
This app is used to monitor the inverter and view details about VAC/VDC.
Here you can follow voltage, current, and load in real time.
The app is practical for troubleshooting and optimizing the system.
But it is not only used for the system – it is actually a CCTV app, and I have 10 cameras installed covering the entire property, both indoors and outdoors.
No one enters without us knowing. If someone tries to enter the property by other means than the permitted entrance, they will meet a 1.5 meter high electric fence with 12,000 volts...

Xiaoxian BMS:
This app is for your BMS (Battery Management System).
Here you can see the status of each cell, balancing, temperature, and capacity.
It is an important tool to ensure that the battery bank runs stably and safely.

With these four apps you have full control over the system – manually, automatically, and via voice control.
Together they form the digital part of Baan Denmark’s energy system.
You can find all apps in your app store.

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💰 Economy and Component Prices

This section shows the approximate prices of the main components in the system.
Prices are listed in USD and EUR, based on international shopping platforms such as AliExpress.
Note: Local prices in Thailand (THB) may vary – shipping, customs, and discounts are not included.

These prices are indicative and updated in November 2025.
For exact prices and shipping to your location, it is recommended to search directly on AliExpress or similar platforms.

Note: Prices are based on international platforms and may be higher than local purchases.
If you build the system yourself and buy locally, you can often save quite a bit – and be pleasantly surprised.
I purchased my components on Lazada Thailand. My total price was: 57,755 THB, equivalent to €1,545.41*

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